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Thursday, March 31, 2011

How To Make A Drop Waist Ribbon Skirt.

On the right hand side of my Blog there is a link to a post called "the wearing of skirts". It us a blog about the social reasons I wear skirts, specifically ribbon skirts. The cultural teachings if why are not included since we do not write such things down.

In this blog I will write how to make a skirt. It is a ribbon skirt because I make it one. However it is also just a drop waist skirt. Someone else could make it and it would be just a skirt. Ribbon skirts can be of various cuts, particularly everyday ones. I like the drop waist. If you want to learn specifically about ribbon skirts then our teaching is (as with all things) that you need to talk to someone about it IRL.

Onto the skirt.

Start with your fabric. I like a Native print. That is optional. I buy usually a 44 inch across fabric, 2 meters or yards long.

* Hold the fabric the right way up. Measure down 24 inches, snip an rip across the the fabric. Repeat.
Now you have 2 pieces that are 24X44. These are your skirt sections

* now measure down 5 inches. Snip and rip across. You now have a piece that is 5X44. This is your waistband.

Do this again but just 1.4 inches, repeat. You now have 2 pieces that are 1.4X44. Together they will become a drawstring.

* now measure down 11 inches and across 23.6 inches. Snip and rip. Repeat. These two pieces are your drop waist pieces.

This time measure out 2 pieces 6X7 inches. Snip and rip. These will be pockets.

Easy ennit? No patterns or pinning.

Now to sew...and iron.
My machine in set at length 2, width 5.

1. Sew two ends (right sides together. Iron seam open. Iron your drawstring in half (wrong sides together) lengthwise. Open it up and then iron each edge to the fold. Then fold shut leaving no raw edges. Sew entire length. Now you have a 1/4 inch X 88 inch long draw string.

2. Now fold the waist band end over 1/4 inch and iron. Then iron waistband in half (lengthways). Open and turn edges under (1/4 inch) and iron. Then iron it all shut leaving now raw edges.

3. Sew the two sides of the drop waist (wrong sides) together with a 5/8th inch seam allowance. Iron open fold.

4. Next open waistband. Place drop waist onto of the opened waist band (wrong sides together). Place so that there us about 5/8 of an inch of drop waist extending past the waistband. Place the drawstring on top. Fold over waist ban enclosing the top of the dropwaist. Pin and sew shut.

5. Iron a 1/4 inch hem around all 4 sides of both pockets. Sew top hem. Place on front of drop waist about an inch up from the bottom edge. Pin and sew 3 un-sewn sides.

6. Sew (right sides) together the two skirt pieces. I always make sure the bottom edges are even. Iron open seam.

7. Set sewing machine to a length of 4.

Now sew across the of the skirt. Do Not back stitch to knit as this is a basting stitch. Next (pulling thread lightly) gather the skirt until it is the same width as the drop waist. Even out gathers. Pin the top of skirt to the bottom of the drop waist (wrong sides together). Now set sewing machine length back to 2. When done open, iron down seam and sew seam down.

8. Fold bottom edge if skirt over about 1 inch (no more) and iron. Then fold over again, iron an sew. Thisis your bottom hem.

9. Next I pin and sew in the ribbon. I do not cut it until I have finished sewing. In the meantime I just pin it up. If the ribbon is narrow I sew down the middle. In this case it us a wider ribbon so I sew along the top edge.

10. You are almost done. Now turn skirt inside out with right side together. Pin, setting bottom edges even. When done sew entire seam making sure not to sew the waistband at all.

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